I'm compiling resources on various floral accords for my Patreon subscribers, and I'm making the first one, honeysuckle, publicly available. For more perfumery education (and monthly perfume samples), check out Morari Scent Lab on Patreon.
Honeysuckle Aroma Molecules (from “Nose Dive”)
- Linalool & its oxides, germacrene, farnesene, terpineol, indole
“Common honeysuckle, woody and rampant, is intensely floral thanks to its mixture of linalool and modified versions of linalool, with a touch of musty indole.”
From Gattefosse Formulary of Perfumery
From Poucher Volume 2
“The honeysuckle fragrance…recalls tuberose, jasmine, and orange blossom in perfect blend…..The penetrating honey-like fragrance is reminiscent of a blend of orange blossom and rose, crowned with undecylic aldehyde and with a slightly balsamic background.”
Potential materials to use:
Top Notes: Benzyl Acetate, Linalool, Decyl Fromate Terpineol, Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol, Bergamot, Geraniol, Rhodinol, Nerol, Para Cresyl Phenylacetate, Mastic
Middle Notes: Cinnamyl Acetate, Heliotropin, Ionone Alpha, Methyl Anthranilate, Ylang, Jasmine Absolute, Rose Absolute, Neroli, Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde
Base Notes: Cinnamic Alcohol, Methyl Maphthyl Ketone, Hydroxycitronellal, Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde, Coumarin, Decyl Aldehyde, Musk Ketone, Olibanum, Phenyl Acetic Acid, Styrax, Tolu Balsam, Undecylic Aldehyde, Vanillin
From An Introduction to Perfumery
From Handbook of Perfumes With Formulations
“Their general odour, sweet and diffusive but only slightly honeyed, can be simulated with basic constituents such as: muguet, orange blossom, rose, and jasmine odourants; cinnamic alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, terpineol, citronellol, linalool, hydroxycitronellal, paracresyl phenylacetate, and anisic aldehyde. Small quantities of methyl cinnamate, methyl naphthyl ketone, phenylethyl acetate, isoeugeonol, and ylang-ylang can be considered. [to emphasize the natural fruitiness of the flower], use may be made of an apricot note.”
From The Good Scents Company (Original: Louis Appel)
From Honeysuckle in Perfumery and Cosmetics (Perfumer & Flavorist)
“Basically, honeysuckle compounds are built on lily of the valley or its components, combined with jasmine or its constituents, and rose or its alcohols. Ionones have been used in the past.
Addtional components are neroli or orange flower, or their constituents, cinnamic alcohol, isoeugenol or eugenol, ylang, aromatic carbinols and their acetates, phenyl ethyl acetate and other derivatives, and p-cresol esters. For the top note, Iinalyl acetate, bergamot or other citrus oil, and aldehydes C-9 to c-12, supported by corresponding alcohols.
In earlier honeysuckle compounds natural musk was used as fixative, later crystalline aromatics, i.e. musk ketone, musk ambrette, heliotrope, and vanillin appeared in such formulas. When macrocyclic musks became available, they replaced the natural musk.
Among other fixatives are resinoids tolu, styrax, and olibanum. Jasmin, mimosa, rose, tuberose, and violet leaves absolute were used in small amounts. In more modem honeysuckle compounds, new aromatics discovered in jasmin, rose, and tuberose, i.e. methyl dihydro jasmonate (hedione), pentylcyclopentenone (delphone), cis-jasmone Iactone, damascenones, especially beta damascenone (2,6,6 -trimethyI-trans-crotony l-cyclo hexadiene,l,3), rose oxides, nerol oxide, and docediene4cdide ketone (tuberolactone) may be used to advantage.”
From Honeysuckle in Perfumery (Fragrantica)
https://www.fragrantica.com/news/Honeysuckle-In-Perfumery-9689.html
Aromatic components:
- Linalool (important role in many florals)
- Hotrienol, isomeric dimethyloctadiendiols (unique odorants in honeysuckle)
- Cis-jasmone, jasmine lactone, methyl jasmonate, and methyl epi-jasmonate (jasmine facet)
- Farnesene, nerolidol, o-cymene, and germacrene (add astringency)
- Methyl benzoate (ylang facet)
- Cis-3-hexenol (grassy green nuance)
- Limonene (citrusy nuance)
- Benzaldehyde (bitter almond)
- Phenyl ethyl alcohol and benzyl alcohol (add rosiness and a balsamic nuance)
- Fatty & unsaturated aldehydes (adds some soapiness and waxiness)
- Ester cis-3-hexenyl tiglate (green, vegetal, with banana-like nuance; also found in gardenia)
Vika’s Jasmine-Honeysuckle Accord
This honeysuckle skews a bit toward jasmine & ylang, particularly their rubbery banana-like facets. If you want it to be more of a “clean”, soapy, slightly powdery honeysuckle (like the FraterWorks honeysuckle base), cut the jasmine sambac in half and add traces of ionones.
Note: Because of the cinnamic alcohol content, this can be skin-sensitizing in higher concentrations. I recommend testing & using this accord at a 5% dilution.
| Ingredient | Dilution | Amount (g) |
|---|---|---|
| Cinnamic Alcohol | 100% | .3 |
| Linalool | 100% | .2 |
| Jasmine Sambac Absolute | 10% | .3 |
| Neroli Essential Oil | 10% | .2 |
| Lilyreal | 100% | .15 |
| Nerol | 100% | .1 |
| Heliotropex N | 100% | .1 |
| Ambrettolide | 100% | .1 |
| Aurantiol | 50% | .055 |
| Benzyl Acetate | 100% | .02 |
| Phenyl Acetic Acid | 40% | .015 |
Miscellaneous
Gorgeous honeysuckle base from FraterWorks: https://fraterworks.com/products/honeysuckle-584569